After couple of days later all 14 temporary hull mould frames were cut out, and were ready to be installed onto the strong back.
The photo to the right shows the temporary frames set up on the strong back inside the shed.
The strong back had to be marked out for the position of each of those mould frame stations.
Then to help accurately align each mould frame, a piano wire was set up set up on the centre line of the strong back, and about 25mm clear of and above the strong back.
I used a piece of angle iron bolted to each end of the strong back so that the piano wire could be pulled very tight and tied off once it was level. The point to note here is that you do not want any sag in the piano wire, or your boat hull will have sag in the middle built into it.
I bought a line level that just hooks over the piano wire. It is a simple tool, and does not cost much.
Then all the datum waterline heights marked on the mould frames were then set up the same distance above the piano wire.
A long accurate builder’s level was also used to check that each mould frame was standing up perpendicularly to the piano wire at 90 degrees, using the vertical centre line marked on each station for the level.
A Builders Square (used horizontally against the hull mould frame) was used to check that each mould frame was horizontally 90 degrees to the piano wire.
All this care in setting up is extremely important if the hull is to be perfectly fair (smooth without humps and hollows). It will certainly pay off with a hull fairness that you can really be proud of.
Then after all those set up operations were completed a laser level was hired to do the final check, and then the temporary frames were finally screwed securely in place so that they would not move under the weight of the hull as it was built over this male mould.
The photo to the right shows the temporary frames set up on the strong back inside the shed.
The strong back had to be marked out for the position of each of those mould frame stations.
Then to help accurately align each mould frame, a piano wire was set up set up on the centre line of the strong back, and about 25mm clear of and above the strong back.
I used a piece of angle iron bolted to each end of the strong back so that the piano wire could be pulled very tight and tied off once it was level. The point to note here is that you do not want any sag in the piano wire, or your boat hull will have sag in the middle built into it.
I bought a line level that just hooks over the piano wire. It is a simple tool, and does not cost much.
Then all the datum waterline heights marked on the mould frames were then set up the same distance above the piano wire.
A long accurate builder’s level was also used to check that each mould frame was standing up perpendicularly to the piano wire at 90 degrees, using the vertical centre line marked on each station for the level.
A Builders Square (used horizontally against the hull mould frame) was used to check that each mould frame was horizontally 90 degrees to the piano wire.
All this care in setting up is extremely important if the hull is to be perfectly fair (smooth without humps and hollows). It will certainly pay off with a hull fairness that you can really be proud of.
Then after all those set up operations were completed a laser level was hired to do the final check, and then the temporary frames were finally screwed securely in place so that they would not move under the weight of the hull as it was built over this male mould.
